Wednesday, 22 December 2010

Triton cross cut attached - sip table saw

First let me apologize  for having to restart this thread right the way back to square one, seems like a plip this afternoon  remove the entire thread.VERY  STRANGE.

I brought this thread forwards as it will help me in the construction of my other on going thread ( my new tool cabinet.)

I use a SIP 01332 table saw which  does not have any cross cutting facilities with it,  which retails at about £360, I still had my old Triton  ETA300  cross cutting sliding table attachment, so though I would  try to attach this to the end of the sip table  to see how it worked out, nothing really to lose,  I paid some two years earlier about £160 so if successful  quiet a saving, as I  knew this attachment is  very accurate.( if set up correctly).

My plans for the saw which I have been planning for some time now were to have a sliding table and a router station fitted into it as well, another reason for purchasing extra extension beds.

I have already  fitted the extension bed leaves to the saw  one on each side of the original table top  my reasoning behind this is to be able to cut  full sheets of material  either way, on my own, with out an extra  pair of hands to help steady the sheet as it come through the saw whilst being cut. I still have to build an out feed table ( but that's another thread).
As my table saw sit on a turntable, I  wanted it to be able to either  have the sliding carriage removable or if I choose leave it attached to swivel around with the saw, this would depend on what other work was going on in the workshop at any given time.

First I had to find a way of attaching it so it could be easily removed or re assembled  with ease  and very quickly. I decided to copy the way  Triton  attached it to there own work-centres. luckily I still had the brackets to do so.

If it was to at times remain attached  but temporarily not use  I needed it to fold down so I  sourced some folding shelf brackets, very strong  one's, but I am disappointed  with the amount on slack in the design of these, they allow the shelve  to dip just under 90 degrees when under weight, which I will now have to make allowances  for as I design the rest of the project.

Now I needed to attach the  second slide bar to the shelve  so I use the same principle as Triton did on the first bar.  I  used flat steel bar 25mm * 5mm cut and bent it in the workshop vice with a small mortice and tenon  cut into them. Then I had to think of a way on fixing them to  the slide bar.  As seen in the pic here to the right  two centre pops  already marked  ready for drilling.

I used this method of fixing to the bar two pop rivets and one thread counter sunk bolt till I was satisfied I had both brackets  set up correctly so that both bars were running spot on parallel with each other, to remove any side ways slack on the carriage guilds, so that each and every cut was cut square.  Once I had this set up and correct I still had a very  very minimum rocking movement on the bars, I can remove this once I take the bar to a welder this will remove all movement keeping the slides  snugly fitted to  curve of the bars.

Now that  the two slide bars are  fitted and secure, time to give thought to the sliding carriage itself. (shown here before reduced in length).  I mentioned above I had previously added two extra extension beds,  this now  moves the  sliding carriage further to the left, so the original measuring scale is no longer accurate. I decided to shorten the carriage down in length,

It's now a 702mm square which is it's original width, I decided to  board over the carriage and ignore  the old built in measurements.

This was done with 6mm ply and stainless steel self tapping screws , now it was time to make sure the  ply top came level with the steel bed on the table saw  this was easily adjusted on the two chrome brackets securing  the  slide bar as the  top screw holes were elongated,  with a slight adjustment this was soon achieved.

The two slide bar are now parallel with each other and parallel with the  saw blade as shown here. ( spot on)

Now the fence it self, I wanted it to  include a sliding stop, plus new  self adhesive  measuring tape which was  sourced from axminster I used Kreg slide rail, self adhesive tape, and a sliding stop.

The fence it self is 56mm * 19mm *1.830mm hardwood screwed and glued with a softwood backing board  secure to the  sliding carriage.

The fence I kept short by 2mm from the edge of the blade,  to stiffen the the fence I used a 19mm * 100mm softwood and the Kreg slide bar once these were fitted  the fence is now ridged with no  flexing in it length.

To cut in  the cross cut position, I can cut just a little over 605mm in width.

To cut across a full sheet simply pick up the slide carriage and turn the hole thing 180 degrees  replace  it on the slide rails   and push till it reaches the  stops on the far end, this will give you a ripping depth of just under 1300mm.

I sourced two toggles hold downs from axminster yesterday afternoon    shown here screwed down with  heavy gauge self tappers.

Here is  shown the completed fence with the second self adhesive measuring tap attached to use when in panel ripping mode. and also showing attached  to the face of the fence self adhesive sand paper  to add some extra grip  to larger panels when cutting, for this I simply used  self adhesive  round  sanding disc and cut them in 45mm strips.

The completed sliding carriage and fence  with one coat  of sanding sealer still drying.



additional work I added to the  table saw an OUT FEED  TABLE  I added this  to help stop the ply section to the right of the saw blade from tipping  when  I cut an 8 * 4 ft  sheet in half, length ways, When the cut is fully cut at that point, the left section was fully supported by the sliding carriage,  To the right of the blade   there was more of the sheet overhanging the back of the table saw bed than was actual still on the saw table bed, this I found to be very dangerous.

The out feed  table its also of fold down design  using the same type of brackets I used on the cross cut table.
I can now cross cut a full sheet, with 50" to the right of the blade , to the left infinity.
I can cut up to 630mm cross cut in front of the blade.

Sliding Carriage LEG MODIFICATION.

On the Triton eta300 sliding carriage the legs are detachable but in one continues length shown here  with folding foot, I decided mainly as my table saw site on a turntable,  when I want to turn the table with these legs attached they had to be removed first then set up again,( time consuming), these legs are necessary  to stop any flexing in length of the slide bars when in the rip mod as the weight of the sheet  transfers past the back edge of the saw table.

To be able to do this I needed to redesign the legs  to remain attached at all times,  I used the same design shown here. When in the cross cut mode, when cutting narrow  timber or sheet material then the legs don't need to be folded down  for extra support.

It's so simple I'll let the picture speak for themselves.

Over head Storage .


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