Wednesday, 22 December 2010

Triton cross cut attached - sip table saw

First let me apologize  for having to restart this thread right the way back to square one, seems like a plip this afternoon  remove the entire thread.VERY  STRANGE.

I brought this thread forwards as it will help me in the construction of my other on going thread ( my new tool cabinet.)

I use a SIP 01332 table saw which  does not have any cross cutting facilities with it,  which retails at about £360, I still had my old Triton  ETA300  cross cutting sliding table attachment, so though I would  try to attach this to the end of the sip table  to see how it worked out, nothing really to lose,  I paid some two years earlier about £160 so if successful  quiet a saving, as I  knew this attachment is  very accurate.( if set up correctly).

My plans for the saw which I have been planning for some time now were to have a sliding table and a router station fitted into it as well, another reason for purchasing extra extension beds.

I have already  fitted the extension bed leaves to the saw  one on each side of the original table top  my reasoning behind this is to be able to cut  full sheets of material  either way, on my own, with out an extra  pair of hands to help steady the sheet as it come through the saw whilst being cut. I still have to build an out feed table ( but that's another thread).
As my table saw sit on a turntable, I  wanted it to be able to either  have the sliding carriage removable or if I choose leave it attached to swivel around with the saw, this would depend on what other work was going on in the workshop at any given time.

First I had to find a way of attaching it so it could be easily removed or re assembled  with ease  and very quickly. I decided to copy the way  Triton  attached it to there own work-centres. luckily I still had the brackets to do so.

If it was to at times remain attached  but temporarily not use  I needed it to fold down so I  sourced some folding shelf brackets, very strong  one's, but I am disappointed  with the amount on slack in the design of these, they allow the shelve  to dip just under 90 degrees when under weight, which I will now have to make allowances  for as I design the rest of the project.

Now I needed to attach the  second slide bar to the shelve  so I use the same principle as Triton did on the first bar.  I  used flat steel bar 25mm * 5mm cut and bent it in the workshop vice with a small mortice and tenon  cut into them. Then I had to think of a way on fixing them to  the slide bar.  As seen in the pic here to the right  two centre pops  already marked  ready for drilling.

I used this method of fixing to the bar two pop rivets and one thread counter sunk bolt till I was satisfied I had both brackets  set up correctly so that both bars were running spot on parallel with each other, to remove any side ways slack on the carriage guilds, so that each and every cut was cut square.  Once I had this set up and correct I still had a very  very minimum rocking movement on the bars, I can remove this once I take the bar to a welder this will remove all movement keeping the slides  snugly fitted to  curve of the bars.

Now that  the two slide bars are  fitted and secure, time to give thought to the sliding carriage itself. (shown here before reduced in length).  I mentioned above I had previously added two extra extension beds,  this now  moves the  sliding carriage further to the left, so the original measuring scale is no longer accurate. I decided to shorten the carriage down in length,

It's now a 702mm square which is it's original width, I decided to  board over the carriage and ignore  the old built in measurements.

This was done with 6mm ply and stainless steel self tapping screws , now it was time to make sure the  ply top came level with the steel bed on the table saw  this was easily adjusted on the two chrome brackets securing  the  slide bar as the  top screw holes were elongated,  with a slight adjustment this was soon achieved.


The two slide bar are now parallel with each other and parallel with the  saw blade as shown here. ( spot on)


Now the fence it self, I wanted it to  include a sliding stop, plus new  self adhesive  measuring tape which was  sourced from axminster I used Kreg slide rail, self adhesive tape, and a sliding stop.

The fence it self is 56mm * 19mm *1.830mm hardwood screwed and glued with a softwood backing board  secure to the  sliding carriage.

The fence I kept short by 2mm from the edge of the blade,  to stiffen the the fence I used a 19mm * 100mm softwood and the Kreg slide bar once these were fitted  the fence is now ridged with no  flexing in it length.





























To cut in  the cross cut position, I can cut just a little over 605mm in width.

To cut across a full sheet simply pick up the slide carriage and turn the hole thing 180 degrees  replace  it on the slide rails   and push till it reaches the  stops on the far end, this will give you a ripping depth of just under 1300mm.












I sourced two toggles hold downs from axminster yesterday afternoon    shown here screwed down with  heavy gauge self tappers.

Here is  shown the completed fence with the second self adhesive measuring tap attached to use when in panel ripping mode. and also showing attached  to the face of the fence self adhesive sand paper  to add some extra grip  to larger panels when cutting, for this I simply used  self adhesive  round  sanding disc and cut them in 45mm strips.






The completed sliding carriage and fence  with one coat  of sanding sealer still drying.
















 

           ADDITIONAL WORK 

additional work I added to the  table saw an OUT FEED  TABLE  I added this  to help stop the ply section to the right of the saw blade from tipping  when  I cut an 8 * 4 ft  sheet in half, length ways, When the cut is fully cut at that point, the left section was fully supported by the sliding carriage,  To the right of the blade   there was more of the sheet overhanging the back of the table saw bed than was actual still on the saw table bed, this I found to be very dangerous.


The out feed  table its also of fold down design  using the same type of brackets I used on the cross cut table.
I can now cross cut a full sheet, with 50" to the right of the blade , to the left infinity.
I can cut up to 630mm cross cut in front of the blade.

Sliding Carriage LEG MODIFICATION.

On the Triton eta300 sliding carriage the legs are detachable but in one continues length shown here  with folding foot, I decided mainly as my table saw site on a turntable,  when I want to turn the table with these legs attached they had to be removed first then set up again,( time consuming), these legs are necessary  to stop any flexing in length of the slide bars when in the rip mod as the weight of the sheet  transfers past the back edge of the saw table.

To be able to do this I needed to redesign the legs  to remain attached at all times,  I used the same design shown here. When in the cross cut mode, when cutting narrow  timber or sheet material then the legs don't need to be folded down  for extra support.

It's so simple I'll let the picture speak for themselves.




Over head Storage .

ENJOY.
  

Wednesday, 1 December 2010

plywood sheet support jig .

I felt one of these were necessary as moving 18mm sheeting about ready to cut on your own can be very difficult, and at times dangerous, I wanted this jig to give that bit of extra support whilst manoeuvring the sheet material for clamping with the two toggle hold downs and to help keep it balanced while doing this, like an extra pair of hands really, extra support till you pass the point of balance on the leading edge of the plywood till your table saw takes all the weight of the sheet being fed through the cut.

I have previously used the roller type free standing material supports but these tend to steer the materials where you don’t want it to go, hate that.

I wanted this jig to be permanently attached to the saw main body and easily accessible with ease of assemble which would only take seconds to do , not minuets, and not get in my way when in or out of use. This meant that no shop bought one would be any good to me so set about designing my own design.

I had left over from my Triton ETA300 sliding carriage a support leg with its balance foot which is 30mm steel square tubing , I decided to use this with one rollerball I also had left over from my turntable thread.

For this thread I decided I wanted to use as much bits and bobs around the workshop as I could, (recycle) so I came up with this idea.

This gave me my first problem to solve how to fit a round peg into a square hole. Square tubing, with a round roller ball attached.


Here I use a short 100mm piece of ordinal sink waste 1/1/2” PVC which has enough elasticity to be tapped on to the 30mm square tubing easily and it is a very tight fit, when on the roller ball fits snugly into the other end, both ends will be glued using araldite later. 



Now I had to come up with how do I keep it out of my way when not it use and easily accessible, and it had to be assembled/disassemble very quickly. I eventually decided sliding bar and fold up/down arm, with roller ball attached.

The support leg I had with bracket had to be altered as I could see no point in having a length of square tubing stuck out which has no purpose. As seen here before and after.


Now to work on how to  attach it up under the saw beds, remember I want it permanently attached.


O n my saw I have already  attached two extra side bed extension leafs, one either side, the one on the right to give extra support  primarily  for cutting  8*4 sheets in half across the sheet,  this also applies to the one on the left , but the left one will also house a router station as well as the sliding carriage attached on again for cross cutting purposes.

When the sliding carriage is set up, a full sheet  when let go of  will tip backward,  as there is not enough of the sheet from the saws front cutting edge to the front edge of the table on the right  of the blade to keep the sheet balanced, this is where this sliding  extending arm come in.

Luckily for me the extension bed comes with pre drilled hole to bolt  straight to the original saw bed, so from here underneath this is where I will   bolt on the housing for the sliding extension bar.

Again using bits & bobs from around the workshop I cut  a piece of  MDF:-

1) 800mm * 300mm * 25mm. HOUSING BACK PLATE

2. 800MM *30mm * 25mm  European  oak HOUSING RUNNERS

1). 800mm * 80mm * 80mm *25mm MDF HOUSING  FRONT PLATE.


 As seen here.


As can be seen  in the photo on the right the arm is now  extended and locked  with the vertical arm in the raised position, I must point out here  until I have the back plate mounted under the saw beds the raised arm cannot be cut down in length.  which has to be able to fold down as well as being raised  this is why I cut the back mounting plate at 300mm deep  just in case I need to adjust it up or down to allow the arm to swing equally in both directions, so the arm when lowered does not  hit the floor.

Now the locking devise is simple a furniture locking nut  with an 8mm bolt and turn handle as shown.




As I was building the housing box I realised I will need some metal plating screwed to the face side of the   backing  MDF plate with a hole pre  drilled  through  it,  as the hole is  quite  close to the edge of  the MDF to rely solely on the MDF strength, so this is where I had to stop for the day as I need to pop into town tomorrow to get some metal  plating to do this .

To fix the sliding arm box underneath I simple used flat bar  screwed to the face of the MDF,  with one hole drill through it, I then removed the two end bolts that bolt the extension bed to the  table saw bed  replaced the bolt with longer one and bolted it  on.

 These photos showing  position, extended and raised , closed and tucked away.  and it now full height cut to length.



The final photo  showing it all set up ready, unfortunately I don't have a full sheet to demonstate it  better but  I think you'll get the idea .


I place a piece of MDF  in front  of and to the right  of  the blade flush with the sliding fence the far end represent the end of an  8' sheet  . the sliding stop  adjuster is set to 4' to the left of the blade  this giving you  the  full length of the sheet  to be cut in two equal halfs.

To see the width of the sheet better I placed  a rule  in the photo where it rest on the  rubber support from the sliding carriage it measure approximately 30" now with the slid out  bar fitted on the right of the saw table bed, Now slide it out in  line, raise the arm and locked it, Now I  have the full length of the sheet  supported and  balance evenly down it's length so it wont tip  backwards  whist I  manoeuvring  it into position to lock the  hold down handle  before cutting.

Now where that  araldite, I'm fed up chasing that bloody  roller ball around the workshop.

ENJOY.

PS  Remember  you seen it here in theworkshop  first.