tri square refurb

An old  W J Henderson Tri Square in need of re-squaring, I do like to use this square but it was not quite accurate enough to use on accurate marking out as I need it to right now.

Luckily for me, the blade had a haunched double mortice and tenon joint simply held together with four very small dowels and very minimal glue.

Easy enough to remove the dowels with a very small size m6 bolt tapped gently till the dowel started to move outwards then repeat to the rest of dowels. Next, tighten blade in a vice and with a small offcut of wood and a mallet gently tap the handle till it slides off the blade.

 Now before reassemble make sure both edges of the blade are parallel with each other with a nice sharp jack plane or bigger if you wish to shoot one edge straight, then set up a marking gauge and mark a parallel line then shoot down to this line.

Now because the square manufacturers before had only used small dowels and very little glue is one reason why it was out of square, I decided here to add wedges to add extra strength to the joint. This meant I had to chop out to allow for the wedges to grip the sides of the original tenon, as shown here.    

I had to think of the best way of getting it all square again whilst I was glueing it together so I decided to use my old Stanley site roofing square with sash cramps as shown here just gently cramped together as the glue dries.

It wasn't till I got to this stage that I realised  I had no small dowels by then too late to glue them in, I would normally do this at this stage,  but ha ho never mind, I, ll have to make some later and glue them in and allow to dry before removing cramps and then clean it all up.

Glued and waiting to dry, I leave the dowels for now till all glue is dry and set hard.  Please don,t allow these lovely old tools to be thrown away refurbish them and keep them going.  

setting tool

Hi all. I bought these magnets from E bay I had been looking for them after I'd seen these planer setting tools being made somewhere else on the net.

I cut and prepared two lengths of oak 18*50*600mm yours may vary depending on your model planer place the two together place one end flush with the far end of the outfeed table and mark in from both ends of the out-feed table by 50 mm and mark.

Now leave the oak timber in its place with the far end level with the end of the outfeed table turn your cutter block till one blade is at TDC as it just scuffs the oak and marks the third position,  this marks is for the position to screw the third magnet forming TDC. Now screw all magnets to there marks, turn them over place the far end level to the end of outfeed table the third magnet is now directly over TDC.  your jig is now completed.

(WARNING) These magnets are very strong be careful I found out to my cost when trying to separate two which snapped back and removed a lump of flesh from my finger.

Please note above the leading edge of planer blade the centre of the magnet and the scribed line are now lined up. I then made a small curved wedge to slip in between the cutter roller to lock roller with no movement.

First, turn the roller cutter by hand till one of the blades reaches it top dead centre and lines up with the scribed line on the framework, this is Indicating (TDC) clearly seen in the left photo.

 

A. First wind up the in-feed table till it is at zero position on the depth setting scales, then wind up or down the out-feed table using a straight edge till its absolutely level with your in-feed table and lock the out-feed table in that position. Both tables are now at the correct level. Wind down the in-feed table. B place in the curved wedge and wind up the in-feed table till it pinches the wedge tight to stop any rotation making sure the leading edge of the blade is adjacent to the scribed line on the block. Repeat this for the first second and third blade.

Setting in your sharp blades. Place in the first blade with just enough pinch on it so when you place the jig in it position over the blade at TDC the third magnet will push down the blade to it correct height the same as the outfeed table and hold it there for you as you lock the nuts to lock it in it final place, repeat on blade two, and three.

Now wind up your in-feed table to its zero position.  Now you have the in-feed table the blades and the out-feed table all set to the exact same height, check it with a straight edge. Now simply set your depth of cut for planing.  The blades are now set correctly, now there will be no snipe at either end of your timber when planing

Now turn the jig over and lay in it correct position. When any planer knives have just been reset and you rotate the planers roller  by hand when the blade reaches TDC you should just feel the blade scuff the timber ONLY without moving the timber jig forwards, anyone who says differently is wrong, if your timber moves forwards the blades are set to high because the blades have actually lifted the timber very slightly this is what causes snipe on the ends of your timber.

Enjoy.

Dust extraction system DX5000

Hi all

This is my extraction system started the last yr, now just about finished all but for crossing the t.s and dotting the I.s

I wanted to get the best from my system, I didn't want to spend a heap of money and time fitting all this equipment and then not to be able to get the best from it, I first spent a heap of time planning where machines and pipe runs would go then slowly a plan came together, first I wanted as much suck as possible so decided to keep pipe runs to a minimum, but with each machine requiring a piped run to the blast chamber at first it was a nightmare I didn’t want all those pipes running overhead like a spiders web going off at all different directions from one blast chamber that you see in so many workshops. I decided on one hard pipe run feeding all machine, which in turn had to feed the two system that I had decided on, it would also mean a long length of pipe connecting all machine possible running from machine to machine, this I didn’t like either.

The system incorporates two sizes of pipework.

50mm for dust, 100mm for machinery.

50mm for hoovering and handheld power tools to cope with MDF dust, MDF is lethal, hence why I decided to design my own system in the first place.

This bought about my final plan to keep hard pipe runs to a bare minimum I decided to split the workshop down the length with machinery on one side and working area on the other, giving me what I wanted the shortest possible hard pipe run of 1.9m including the blast chamber, the air/lift for all debris/dust being a short distance of 800mm to the inlet port on the extractor.

In the blast chamber, there are three blast gates, the blast chamber is 600mm long from the left black blast gates to the right steel blast gate and there is one 50mm blast gate connected via the 50mm pipework which is 300mm above the 100mm hard pipework, plus one 50mm Hoover point.

I also designed it for a minimum lift for all wood debris & dust hence why I didn’t want to go overhead unless I really had to, and then (only) if it was to be sucking dust, so decided to drop as much pipework to within(600mm) from the floor level. (Minimum lift).

After I got to this stage I could not find a blast gate to fit the 50mm pipework So I set about designing and making my own blast gates, this is a good starting point for this Post.

50MM PVC BLAST GATES

All the 50mm blast gate were made from PVC piping which all came from a company called FLOPLAST here in Weymouth on the trading estate as did all the material for the 50mm and  100mm. I’m sure this product can be purchased elsewhere from your local dealer merchants.

The blast gates are made from two straight couplings, two short lengths of pipe, glue together and then glued into some off cut of 3/8” plywood left over from when I constructed my workshop, the short lengths of pipe are first glued into one end (only) of both couplings and then the coupling glue into the suction hole in the plywood which are shown as follows.

The glue used is just normal PVC piping glue (as shown below) the sort used to glue a sink wast or plumb in a washing machine, (don't let anyone tell you it won't stick, believe me, it does)on plywood, not sure how it would work on MDF seeing that a bit oily, try it and let me know if it's OK.

LH photo showing a short length of pipework before glueing. RH photo Showing suction hole



LH photo Showing glue bottle and hand grips to be glued. RH photo The dark areas are wet glue beforehand grips were the glue



LH photo here shown with a double hand grips (inner)open/closed stops (outer) push/pull hand grips glued in position, but that was changed, I didn’t like it, so I cut off the outer hand push/pulls grips and combined the two remaining open/closed stops into hand grips as well, dual-purpose, all the other gates were then made this way.



The metal strip is shown on edge of a completed blast gate so it can be fixed to the wall and secure pipework in position.

These two photos here show the blast gates in the vertical position closed and opened, just kept simple with a length of cord and a screw, or dowel rod glued into MDF.



These shots are showing the assemble blast gates from various views.



That just about covers how I went about making these blast gates.

The 100mm blast gates I decided to buy only because I could not find 100mm straight couplers at the time, and partly because of so many other things going on in my life at that time, but in hindsight, I wish I had researched for them a little longer. I used 100mm black plastic ones from AXMINSTER which also can be purchased from just about any good merchants, these get blocked with sawdust in the corners and then the gate won’t close properly so you lose suction, three has broken all replaced with metal blast gates.

50mm and 100mm ducting.

As mentioned, the main hard pipe machine ducting run is a total of 1.9m including the blast chamber of 600mm, so let’s start from the chamber and inlet pipe to the extraction inlet pipe which is 1.4 mm above floor level.

The three photos show the entire length of hard pipe ducting run (left) 1.1m. (Middle) is the blast chamber 600mm width 800mm height. (RH ) the entire lengths of hard pipe ducting run 1.9m including blast chamber.



FLEXI pipework.

From the blast gates, these run to all machines independently in 100mm Flexi.

Circular saw.

I have the saw mounted to on a turntable so no matter what position I lock the turntable in the Flexi remains connected at all times along with the overhead saw guard.

LH photo 90 degrees across the workshop. Rhphoto turned90degrees to the right



Planer

This again has a 100mm pipe fitted permanently so I can easily change from overhead planing by simple opening the Planer beds and changing to thickness mode the Flexi length is 2.5m. I have stated that I split the workshop down the length with all machine to one side of the shop, not quite correct with the one exception of the band saw 100mm and 50 mm Hoover point which I had to go overhead with both pipes runs, this pipes can be seen rising vertically in the centre of the right-hand photo of the ducting hard pipe.



50MM DUCTING

I fitted this for the extraction of dust from all power tools i.e.: router sanders and of course a Hoover system so I could get rid of all portable Hoovers and dust bucket plus leads and flexing pipes everywhere, I found this company CVCDIRECT and bought three Hoover socket and a seven-meter hose which when I plug into two of the sockets I can reach all corners of the shop from both sides of the shop for cleaning dust, the third socket still to be fitted which will be used outside the shop but plumbed through the wall into existing pipework, so on those warm sunny day when I get to work outside to work I can Hoover all the decks and keep them clean as well.

Showing pipe runs crossing the shop.



Bits and bobs

Still to complete, the placement of a couple more rodding eyes in the 50mm system and the fitting of one more Hoover point.

Well guys and girls hope you have enjoyed and it may be of help to someone out there, I know I enjoyed putting it all together, it’s taken a long time and a lot of money but well worth the effort it’s now finally has come together.
Now, what do I do now, ah yes complete my infill planes, my tool cabinet, and then ah yes, start my new bench? hc




Hi matt

As promised, some photos of the parts you wanted to see,



You will need the pipe shown on the (right) which is glued into the holder pipe (centre) which in turn is glued into the white 50mm ducting pipe

length of hose with some brushes



with faceplate fitted, it just a tight push in with screw hole if needed, faceplate fitted to hose connection just a push-fit remove the faceplate to back holder and throw away



first hoover point fitted into 50mm ducting run
in this photo, it shows two brass electric 12v point so if you want to connect it up, it will switch on the motor of hoover these were designed for when you plug in hose to socket.

and finally, hose plugged in. Hope this of some help to you.