Parts have been ordered, but, at the moment just enough to fire it up so I know it is still a working saw.
As soon as it is fired up, I'll strip it totally to pieces and start a complete refurbishment here.
It appears to have a few missing parts, things like missing table extension bars, dust bag, Allen key, blade wrench.
I have managed to source a dust extraction hose connector, a new drive belt, plus the wrench, and the Allen key, I have on order two TC blades First of the parts arrived today and I have fitted new brushes and holders at least I now know its a runner.
No prizes for guessing as to what was wrong with it. The brushes were very simple to fit. Shown the old brushes and holders, New brushes and holders now fitted, brush covers refitted. The trigger switch was hanging out of the handle with a muddle of wiring now sorted and refitted in position.
The ordered Tc blade came today as well. Instead of replacing like for like, the old blade only had 24 teeth I increased the new blades to 64 teeth for a much finer finish to the cut. The drive belt I won't fit till the present one breaks.
I reassembled all parts today after fiddling here and there to work out where and how all the parts fitted which took a bit of time seeing it was already stripped apart so I didn't know how they fitted into each other, but, as you can see it all back together.
As seen here an offcut of Oak 60 * 45 mm it cut spot on at 90
degrees across the gain and at 90 degrees vertically, absolutely no wobble, no signs of wear in the bearings or shaft, phew.
I tried several other cuts with lovely clean finishes, from these cuts I decided there is no point in stripping this saw any further, even if I were to replace all bearings
and the main drive shaft it would not improve the saws cuts at all, unnecessary work and expense. I think a case of leave well alone.
All I'm going to do now is make a simple bench to bolt it to. any ideas?
In the shop tidying up after the re-build picked up the old blade and was going to chuck it in the bin but took a closer look at it, hmm maybe not, I scraped off some of the gunge that was baked onto the teeth, Couple of photos before and after.Monday send it off t for re-sharpening seeing it has wear I'll keep this one for rough cutting and as a spare while the other blade is away for sharpening.
30 comments:
Hi Martin
I just picked up one of these. Whats not working is the guard. It doesn't swing out of the way when the blade goes down.
Do you know how that mechanism works?
Thanks
Remove the front plate ,it very simply it all sprung loaded easy to understand and easy to get a replacement spring from Miles tool & machine company. I just altered my return comment because some (anonymous) person pointed out it was dewalts who took over elu not bosch, oops as i had previously stated. Any problem let me know.
hey martin, I'm anonymous because I dont have an account etc.
I'm changing the brushes and replacing the saw blade in mine.
A beautiful compact 20 yr/old drop saw!
david
I know several Davids but do I know which one this maybe? I dont understand what you mean you don't have an account, you could become a follower. Drop saw sound like it could be interesting post some pics if you can. Martin
Hi Martin. Im in Australia, so I dont think you know me!
I just got my new brushes for it today at Bunnings. And as I tried disconnecting the old brush from its wire, I accidentally yanked the other end of the wire out from deeper inside the case. Which I'll deal with it tomorrow, and somehow use needle nose pliers to slot it back in.
I got a nice Makita 216mm 30mm bore 24 teeth saw blade... I wanted only 24 teeth so I can cut through pine studs quickly. I dont have the patience for a 40 or higher teeth on a job site! a clean cuts for me not important here...
Did you know you can download the manual from the dewalt website? its a for a type 1 but still the same info... also tells you how to fineline the 3 bevel angles.
German made this saw too... good engineers
David thanks for the info on dewalts website thats handy for others to follow as well.
Hi Martin, I have an old Elu PS174 saw, but i haven't used it in over 10 years. any thoughts on how to remove the inner flange (that holds the blade guard), i don't have the pin spanner, it still works ok.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzr9v_OJ_iCyUlB2cjRaNVFPZzQ/view
Hi Jim. no spanner that could be awkward, do you know any good metal workers that could make you one for a small fee.? once the blade is off there is a long return spring that coils around the main shaft with a long sliding bar as well, take plenty of photos of it so you can see how to replace all the parts back correctly before you strip it apart its easy really. At his point the main handle can be split apart if needed, again photos to remind you how it all goes back together, good luck the Elu,s chop saws are really worth refurbishing great piece of kit, any problems contact me, let me know how you get on.
Hi again Martin. I've sourced a spanner, but i'm still finding it impossible to remove the flange, i can only hold it with maulgrips but the teeth of the grips are going to damage the flange at worst unbalance the blade and i can't seem to stop the motor rotating. How did you do yours?, showing on your photo's. An expert's mind needed here?. I also need to replace the return spring on the guard. Thanks again.
Hi Jim. I notice in your link it shows your blade removed along with the outer flange and center Allen keyed bolt, Question why are you trying to remove the inner flange?, for what reason. As from my second photo, i received this saw as its shown there.
I'm desperately trying to remember if i removed the inner half of the blade guard secured by the back half of the blade flange to the outer section of handle. In my photos you can see the On/Off Switch was hanging out of the handle as all the screws were removed and the handle had been split apart in pieces, I dont think i removed the inner flange.
When the saw is operational, before you can lower the blade you have to press the large level on the handle with the palm of your hand this pushes a flat bar inside the the two sections of handle as the saws arm lowers, the spring will then pull the blade guard up and out of the way of the timber waiting to be cut, the bar and spring work together. hope this is off some help. please let me know how you get on.
Hi Jim. thinking things through a little further if your saw is stripped down this far, split the handle and take a look see, if you have problem in the future with things like bushes or the main On/Off switch it best to replace the bushes now, if there good OK, at least you'll see what your up against for any future maintenance.
Hi Martin, on your main page:
http://headclansmanblog.blogspot.co.uk/2013/10/elu-ps174-type-a3-mitre-chop-saw-total.html, the 5th photo is showing the inner and outer flanges removed (bottom right of the photo).
That's what i'm trying to remove. I've put lots of WD so to loosen the inner flange but to no avail. I need to replace the guard lever assembly because it's broken.. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzr9v_OJ_iCyUWlONF9udGhycVk/view?usp=sharing
Can you remember if you used the pin spanner and the hex key in opposite turns to remove the inner flanges?
Here's some photo's.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzr9v_OJ_iCyR2lUQlQ0V1BSMU0/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzr9v_OJ_iCydHFIUm93RnNoN3c/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzr9v_OJ_iCyVVMzdzBZTHFNdDg/view?usp=sharing (circlip behind the flange so to remove the guard)
I'm about to give up on this repair project :(
Hi JIM , Please remember it was some time ago i did this refurbishment. Now I see your problem. the broken wire, it is attaches inside the the main handle, unscrew all the screws that hold the handle together and split it, then you will see it all. while your inside the handle you can now check the condition of the brushes as well, while inside the handle it will give you a better view of every thing else that may need doing. let me know how you get on.
HI, I'm in Australia also and have a ps174, I need a drive belt, anyone know of a supplier in Aus? cheers
I know this was done a few years ago but where did you get the brushes from martin
thanks chris
Hi Chris , if you just type elu ps174 it will find the web site i order from.All you have to do is select the correct model no and a chart will pop up with all the spare parts available for that model will be shown. good luck.
Hello Martin,
I have an old working Elu PS174, 1200W, 5900mins.
It,like me, has seen better days!
Releasing the slide mechanism has always been rather hit and miss - in fact more miss than hit!
I bought this second hand PS174 years ago and have never had a user manual.
I feel that it has not been by design or any positive action on my behalf but rather by pure happy accident that on the odd occasion the glide mechanism has successfully released.
I feel the release is probably achieved by some combination of the on trigger and the large lever on the handle.
Would be very grateful if you could perhaps please shed some light on this issue and perhaps provide some much needed advice.
Kind Regards,
Anita Davies
HI I am replacing the Drive belt on my elu ps 174. Any help with this would be appreciated as i am having difficulty with replacing the new belt.
Many Thanks
Jon
Hi Martin, A friend of mine has an ELU PS174 and is helping us to lay a parquet floor. When he's tried to make a cut at 45 degrees it isn't quite right - as it is off line slightly. We've found an instruction manual on line which talks about adjusting to the table and the fence but we're not sure which we should be adjusting or which way we need to go - at the moment the cut is slightly more than the 45 degrees. Are you able to shed any light on this please? Thanks.
Hi Unknown, On the front of your saw you have a semi circular degree gauge, underneath hat you have pre set various angle that you can set for doing compound mitres and 45 degrees 90 degrees etc which when you untighten the black securing handle you lift a release locking trigger to move to what ever your next cutting angle is to be, When the black securing is slacken off before you lift the trigger mechanism see if there is any side way movements there, check to see in left hand side of the lever is directly above the red zero mark. If not on the end of the trigger is an adjustable bolt tighten or slacken to move lever in what ever direction is required, I'm afraid its trial and error to get it right.
Also you check the two screw in the mitre gauge itself to see if there's any movement either way. Please let me know how you get on with this if successful I'll post your reply to others to see and learn from. if it doesn't work also let mew know and I'll see what else I can come up with, good luck Martin
Hi
Does anybody have an old ELU ps174 type A5 dropsaw like you guys have been talking about in this chat? I need a trigger switch that still clicks, but maybe the saw is had it. I have looked on the Dewalt website and there is nothing there. I guess the saw is too old. Would like to find one. Please let me know if anyone e can help.
Here you go mate try this company, https://www.mtmc.co.uk/product.aspx?ProductID=129580&source=googlebase&gclid=Cj0KCQjwoInnBRDDARIsANBVyARsD9tSa8xu26KkY1rOBjjLH1kLKCDSalOOycMAxo-aJS36_3czIAsaAj5yEALw_wcB I got all my parts here scroll down to number 3 good luck. Martin
just realized I don't know if yours is 110 v or 240v so select from the list which number fit your saw.
Jim mentioned problems removing the rear flange that is
visible when the blade is removed. Ihave a failed bearing
and needed to remove the flange to get at the bearing.
With some difficulty It is possible to get a bearing cracker
(£20) into the space and almost remove the flange. The final
few mm was gently done with a couple of cold chisel wedges.
That enabled the guard to be removed and the bearing to be
exposed. At this point it was not obvious how to remove the
covers to get at the bearings. Any sugestions would be
appreciated.
Just been researching how to change the bearings on my PS174 and came across this video which I am sharing here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gxUl0qJjW44
Having a real problem with the sliding mech on one of these Elu PS174 saws. It simply refuses to budge. I've removed the locking spindle @ the side and sprayed WD40 into the opening. Not optimistic! Anyone out there with suggestions? P.S. Is there something I've no released? It really is stuck solid
Regards
Hi there Martin. Just a quick question. I have lost the tightening knob that locks any movement when you select a angle cut. I think it is just a threaded shaft with knob on end and has a spring to hold tension on it when not tightened. So my question is..Are there any other parts to this assembly? I have the rocker piece it pushes onto, just lost the screw in knob and whatever went with it. Hope this makes sense. Pretty easy to loose these bits when moving around the place. My angle cuts are a bit off as can not set it tight. Cheers Martin.
Bruce G
NZ
Hi Bruce, I Hope these photos sort it for you. Thanks, Martin
Hi there. Just came across this blog. Wondering if anyone is looking for parts for an Elu mitre saw. I have one that I used regularly up to last fall. It served me well but the main bearing has gone. I tried to find parts but I didn't have the time to chase them down so I bought a new Makita saw.
As much as I loved the old Elu, I can't see myself going back to it now that I have a new saw.
Thought that there might be some Elu lovers out there that could use my old saw for parts.
dns
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