Monday, 26 April 2010

Old planes - Infill Planes

As some of you will know I am going to try and make an infill plane not as most do manufacture the complete body, but using old planes as the donor body for the infill body. The first plane will be a 2" smoothing plane I  am  using a Record T5 for this plane ,the second one is to be a 2" jack plane and this one will be from an old Bedrock 605.

This is going to take some considerable time to complete so those of you that may be interested stay tuned , I have now sourced all the raw materials to make a start on manufacturing the blade , cap irons , lever cap , lever cap bolts , cap iron bolts lever cap swivel bolts and grub screws plus a lump of Bali hardwood for the totes and handles.

Seeing there a lot of metal working involved I decided to get most of it roughed out first , before i start assemble , when assemble actually starts then I'll put the finishing touches to the metal work as the work progresses,
so here go's a few photos to bring you up to date.

Pic1 showing the dismantled bodies of the donor planes .

Photo 2 showing lump of timber from Yandles of Martock as I am not that far into hardwood's they tell me it Bali , as yet I don't know what it like to work but it does have a very nice grain run which I hoping it will give the tote and handle the effect on the handle that I'm looking for .

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Seeing I wanted to make all components my self and don't have a lathe making the lever cap bolt and cap iron bolt at first seemed like a problem , so I decided to use my Axminster sanding machine in conjunction with a battery drill , the drill when switched on is turning inwards towards the direction of the sander pulling in a downward direction so the body of the drill was force to rest on the guard of the sander keeping it a steady position I was really surprised at the results I got , In fact I'm really chuffed with the bolts, I did both the lever cap bolts and the cap iron bolts as well , I cocked up the first cap iron bolts first time around they need to be longer so I could grip them more securely in the chuck to centre them more accurately.

Pic3 showing the bolt after grinding them this was done to the brass lever cap bolts and the cap iron bolts .
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Pic4 These photos shows the original cap iron bolts + the hexagon bolts before grinding started on the sander and the finished bolts ground down to the size required to fit snugly in to the Norris adjuster .

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Pic5 cap iron bolt cut to length and snugly fitted into Norris adjuster

Pic6 cap iron bolts before and after

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Pic7 Brass bar drilled and lever bolts in position brass ready to be cut to length to form lever cap at a later date .

Pic8 Lever cap bolts all buffed up

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Photo 9 & 10 the next two photo shown I bought this knurling tool from e Bay clamped in to the vice and again used the battery drill and it did the job OK .

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Pic11 this photo shows the swivel bolts for the the lever cap itself the bolt will have the heads cut off to length and slot cut into end at a later date during assemble .

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Plane irons phew a lot of work still as yet unfinished still to be ground for angles on the end and to be hardened and tempered and then have there final polishing to a high finish standard .

iron cap showing bent to shape

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well guys that about it for now , hope you enjoyed and didn't fall asleep half way through the post , stay tuned more as soon as I can . hc

Dust extraction system DX5000

Hi all

This is my extraction system started last yr, now just about finished all but for crossing the t.s and dotting the I.s

I wanted to get the best from my system, I didn't want to spend a heap of money and time fitting all this equipment and then not to be able get the best from it , I first spent a heap of time planning where machines and pipe runs would go then slowly a plan came together, first I wanted as much suck as possible so decided to keep pipe runs to a minimum , but with each machine requiring a piped run to the blast chamber at first it was a nightmare I didn’t want all those pipe running over head like a spiders web going off at all different directions from one blast chamber that you see in so many workshops. I decided on one hard pipe run feeding all machine , which in turn had to feed the two system that I had decided on, it would also mean a long length of pipe connecting all machine possible running from machine to machine, this I didn’t like either.

The system incorporates two sizes of pipe work.

50mm for dust, 100mm for machinery.

50mm for hoovering and  hand held power tools to cope with MDF dust, MDF is lethal, hence why I decided to design my own system in the first place.

This bought about my final plan to keep hard pipe runs to a bare minimum I decide to split the workshop down the length with machinery on one side and working area on the other, giving me what I wanted the shortest possible hard pipe run of 1.9m including the blast chamber, the air/lift for all debris/dust being a short distant of 800mm to the inlet port on the extractor.

In the blast chamber there are three blast gates, the blast chamber is 600mm long from the left black blast gates to the right steel blast gate and there is one 50mm blast gate connected via the 50mm pipe work which is 300mm above the 100mm hard pipe work , plus one 50mm Hoover point .

I also designed it for a minimum lift for all wood debris & dust hence why I didn’t want to go overhead unless I really had to , and then (only) if it was to be sucking dust, so decided to drop as much pipe work to within(600mm) from the floor level.(Minimum lift).

After I got to this stage I could not find a blast gate to fit the 50mm pipe work So I set about designing and making my own blast gates, this is a good starting point for this Post.

50MM PVC BLAST GATES

All the 50mm blast gate were made from PVC piping which all came from a company called FLOPLAST here in Weymouth on the trading estate as did all the material for the 50mm and  100mm. I’m sure this product can be purchased elsewhere from your local dealer merchants.

The blast gates are made from two straight couplings, two short length of pipe, glue together and then glued into some off cut of 3/8” plywood left over from when I constructed my workshop, the short lengths of pipe are first glued into one end (only) of both couplings and then the coupling glue into the suction hole in the ply wood which are shown as follows.

The glue used is just normal PVC piping glue (as shown below) the sort used to glue a sink wast or plumb in a washing machine, (don't let anyone tell you it wont stick, believe me it does)on plywood, not sure how it would work on MDF seeing that a bit oily, try it and let me know if it's OK.

LHp showing short length of pipe work before gluing. RH photo Showing suction hole

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LHphoto Showing glue bottle and hand grips to be glued. RHphoto The dark areas are wet glue before hand grips were glue

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LHphoto here shown with a double hand grips (inner)open/closed stops (outer) push/pull hand grips glued in position , but that was changed , I didn’t like it, so I cut off the outer hand push/pulls grips and combined the two remaining open/closed stops into hand grips as well, dual purpose, all the other gates were then made this way.

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Metal strip shown on edge of a completed blast gate so it can be fixed to wall and secure pipe work in position.

These two photos here show the blast gates in the vertical position closed and opened , just kept simple with a length of cord and a screw, or dowel rod glued into MDF.

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These shots are showing the assemble blast gates from various views.

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That just about covers how I went about making these blast gates.

The 100mm blast gates I decided to buy only because I could not find 100mm straight couplers at the time , and partly because of so many other thing going on in my life at that time , but in hindsight I wish I had researched for them a little longer.I used 100mm black plastic ones from AXMINSTER which also can be purchased from just about any good merchants , these get blocked with saw dust in the corners and then the gate won’t close properly so you lose suction, three has broken all replaced with metal blast gates.

50mm and 100mm ducting.

As mentioned, the main hard pipe machine ducting run is a total of 1.9m including the blast chamber of 600mm, so let’s start from the chamber and inlet pipe to the extraction inlet pipe which is 1.4 mm above floor level.

The three photos show the entire length of hard pipe ducting run (left) 1.1m. (Middle) is the blast chamber 600mm width 800mm height. (RH ) the entire lengths of hard pipe ducting run 1.9m including blast chamber.

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FLEXI pipework.

From the blast gates these run to all machines independently in 100mm Flexi .

Circular saw.

I have the saw mounted to on a turntable so no matter what position I lock the turntable in the Flexi remains connected at all times along with the overhead saw guard.

LHphoto 90 degrees across workshop. Rhphoto turned90degrees to the right

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Planer

This again has a 100mm pipe fitted permanently so I can easily change from overhead planing by simple opening the Planer beds and changing to thickness mode the Flexi length is 2.5m. I have stated that I split the workshop down the length with all machine to one side of the shop, not quite correct with the one exception of the band saw 100mm and 50 mm Hoover point which I had to go overhead with both pipe runs, this pipes can be seen rising vertical in the centre of the right hand photo of the ducting hard pipe.

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50MM DUCTING

I fitted this for the extraction of dust from all power tools i.e.: router sanders and of course a Hoover system so I could get rid of all portable Hoovers and dust bucket plus leads and flexing pipes everywhere, I found this company CVCDIRECT and bought three Hoover socket and a seven meter hose which when I plug into two of the sockets I can reach all corners of the shop from both sides of the shop for cleaning dust , the third socket still to be fitted which will be used outside the shop but plumbed through the wall into existing pipe work , so on those warm sunny day when I get to work out side to work I can Hoover all the decks and keep them clean as well .

Showing pipe runs crossing the shop.

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Bits and bobs

Still to complete, the placement of a couple more roding eyes in the 50mm system and the fitting of one more Hoover point.

Well guys and  girls hope you have enjoyed and it may be of help to someone out there, I know I enjoyed putting it all together, it’s taken a long time and a lot of money but well worth the effort it’s now finally has come together.
Now what do I do now, ah yes complete my infill planes, my tool cabinet, and then ah yes, start my new bench. hc




Hi matt

As promised , some photos of the parts you wanted to see ,

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You will need the pipe shown on the (right) which is glued into the holder pipe (centre) which in turn is glued into the white 50mm ducting pipe

length of hose with some brushes

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with face plate fitted , it just a tight push in with screw hole if needed, face plate fitted to hose connection just a push fit remove face plate to back holder and throw away

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first hoover point fitted into 50mm ducting run
in this photo it shows two brass electric 12v point so if you want to connect it up , it will switch on motor of hoover these were design for when you plug in hose to socket .
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and finally hose plugged in . Hope this of some help to you .