Sunday, 31 July 2011

Mods to a Record T5, with Lie nielsen Blade

I've decided at long last modify all my Stanley Bailey planes, I'm upgrading them with Lie Nielsen  blades and this time I'm also replacing the old  Stanley chip breakers  with the new thicker Lie Nielsen  chip breakers.

I did  do an earlier upgrade on a Stanley Bailey No 5 the post found here  in my blog which I will supply a link to  a little later, I did not at that time up grade the chip breaker to the No 5, that one will also  be included in these  up grades, to that plane  there will be an  alteration that I did to the sideways lateral movement that I'm not happy with, it  didn't work quite as I had hoped so that modification will be removed from the plane  and a another y  lever fitted to accommodate the extra thickness with a new  Lie Nielsen chip breaker being fitted.

Lucky for me as seen  here to save a lot of time I already have some spare y lever that I previously lengthened when I did the original  Stanley upgrade.

The y lever was fitted into a spare  frog from an old Stanley No 5  that's among my spare parts  so it was easily remove by tapping out the  securing pin  then doing the same to frog on the T5 and  then refitting the frog into the T5.



Above showing the record y lever before removal after fitting and a comparison with a second T5 showing the difference in the two lengths to cope with the new Lie Nielsen blade and chip breaker.

Next comes the alteration to the mouth of the plane  body  to allow  the  extra thick blade to slip through the body to be able to plane timber .

Shown here partly altered,  I filed out the mouth to allow the blade to just slide through it  for now,  the blade as yet unsharpened.



The mouth showing daylight, after the blade is sharpened this may still require a final  adjustment.


  The blade just showing through the sole as yet still unsharpened .

Finally the blade and chip breaker fitted,  the first of many planes still to do, the next one will be to do the alterations on the No 5  after that next the No 3  But still have to order the  blade and chip breaker for that one.

I still have to sharpen the blade an do the complete refurbishment of this plane  but as you have  already guessed  those will be other posts. 

Plane blade now sharpened  grind angle 25 degrees Scary sharpened 30 degrees , shaving in my palm are from end grain and in the micrometer, down the edge curly shaving  from the same piece of oak  now set to take shaving at 0.01mm, I'm chuffed.



ENJOY. Martin

Sunday, 10 July 2011

Pillar drill adjustable floor stand

Seen here with adjustable machine feet  from axminster bolted through 25mm MDF  with the four securing bolt poking through all adjusted and level in both direction, and then screwed down through with 4" * 12  screws into the floor boards and  joists.


My new drill arrived on time as Axminster had promised   then delivery here five days later, and went back the following week, changed with no problem at all, second one arrived Saturday morning, all assemble to day. Then I set about making this adjustable stand to bolt it to the  workshop floor  I made it adjustable to allow for any floor settlement, it now mounted and secured.  My advice to anyone owning a floor  standing drill, secure it, they can easily be toppled over.




Timber storage + corner workstation

Hi, I soon realised when I started machining my wheel marking gauges brass bits (still on going) that I had to have a more accurate drill press, + more importantly a dedicated section in the work shop a for metal working section, this section has to include a sharpening section, a pillar drill , small lathe, large metal vice, grinders, metal working tools storage, and of course timber storage + ply sheeting storage .I forgot to say I have also to include my axminster belt sanding station as well into this corner. Hmm interesting it's going to be tight.

The storage  racking section built all from 50mm x 50mm prepared mortice and tenons wedged glued and pinned with 100mm *50mm prepared cross section  housed  framing to support the  work surface of 18mm MDF .

I have also decided to build into the bench top a turntable to  make it a centre for the grinder,  polishing  machine and   Dakota plane blade sharpener  so there all together, select anyone with the turn of a wheel. Next to come will be the framing to form a narrow bench over the top of this.



The turntable  cut from  from half sheets of 18mm MDF.  Machined  with two circles cut at approx 6mm depth to house the 12.7mm ball bearing  as seen below.






In the next three pic it show all three machine placed on the turn table, but this is now to be reduced to two machines only As I really don't like the Dakota wet wheel, to be disposed of. the scary sharpening you see on the turn table is now  longer use there and has increased in size as  well.


Turn table has now been  machined, and  fitted along with the left and right hand  bench work surface  shortly after I fitted a wrought iron angle iron to the bench edges  on both work surfaces. On  too the left end of the left work surface a I fitted a very large  metal working vice, To  the rear of this vice as seen in pics this is where I will hang all my files and hacksaws etc. The right hand surface  this has become my  hand sharpening area as seen below.

The bench now built meant I had time now to plan ply storage, over head storage and  a place for my  sanding centre.

 



Basically  what you see here is  half the metal working area , over in the left hand corner  will be another cabinet  for a small metal working lath to sit on  and store  all the necessary tooling , plus  my  new Axminster floor standing drill  to complete the metal working area of my workshop , but that will be another thread. Martin.

Saturday, 9 July 2011

creusen bench grinder

This old bench grinder a Creusen NS 5215T: I have had now for more years that  I can remember , bought from axminster tools in axminster when they were in there original shop in the high street. Its never hand a great deal of  use  most of it's use was  in my jobbing days  where it was set-up in the back of my van. Since I retired it's hardly seen any use at all, in fact the right hand wheel which is the water stone had seized up with rust from lack of use.

I have managed to free up the spindle so at least both wheels are now  turning, Thought it's about time this machine had a complete strip apart and complete rebuild before I bring it into workshop use as I remember it was not a cheap grinder, seen here before work starts.




The above Photos show the grinder before during and after stripping, with one knackered wheel.

Below Shows grinder,  stripped gear box reassembled temporarily + part awaiting  reassembly and paint




I have  now been trying to source a new  aluminium oxide wheel of 200mm x  40mm  with a bore of 15mm  with a grit of 220. after a lot of searching  and and  questions I didn't find many that were  40mm wide and all had a  different bore size  which in turn meant either use a spacer to make up  the difference on the spindle or have the  spindle turned down in size  to fit the smaller bore, but more surprisingly the cost of the wheel  varied from £62- £82  wow. On the cheaper end of the market you can buy  the entire machine for under £40 complete with wheels.

I have now been forced to rethink this refurbishment entirely, however I have placed a  bid on a  Dakota  wet stone grinder on e-bay, I still have a few options left open here  but lets Waite to see how that goes.

Well I've  had the  Dakota wet grinder know for some time ,  I am very disappointed with it not what I expected at all,  Just not my idea of a wet grinder.

So back to my creusen time now to source another wet stone for that instead.




Here it is  freshly painted,now  awaiting a new wet wheel. I have decided to do away with the original grinding jigs it came with to much flex in them to hold the plane blade square to the grinding wheels, so have just ordered  some new ones, but that another thread.


Ha ah   finally it's taken me over a year to track down this wheel,  while on holiday here in Holland with my daughter  I mentioned to Edwin her partner that I was still  looking for my  water-stone he very kindly rang cruesen, I had told him  I had rung Creusen a year earlier  only to be told sorry sir  there obsolete, he rang  them  and was told certainly sir we have them in stock, Grrrrr,  but a very good price 37.50 euros  it arrived  yesterday,  they also supplied an address in England  who I have also contacted, I have now placed an order for a second stone as well.

When i get it home fit it dress it off to get it true balance and then start to build all the new  different grinding jigs around it, but as  I said that's another thread.



There it is fitted, awaiting some more jigs for completion, but as you have already guessed that another post. enjoy.


Martin

Wednesday, 6 July 2011

chute shoot shooting- board mk1

Hi guys, spent the afternoon knocking up this. I have never used one nor owned one either, built it primarily to help with the sliding trays that will be built into my drawers on the new tool cabinet, so thought just in case I don't like using it just a quicky to start with, maybe build a better one later, seemed a bit strange to start off with need to practice a bit with this just to get the hang of it. just wondering those of you who have them and use them what sort do you have? and did any of you make any alteration to yours as you went along .



Well here goes mk2.

MK1  scrapped well not entirely  the over hang of 1/8 "  has been removed  and an Oak edging strip  glued in it place, an oak 10mm  running strip was also glued on late last night, this morning set the  T5  and remove a few shaving to form the running edge then  squared up the fence and screwed it on permanently.  last but not lest,  using scotch tap glued onto the edge of the fence a strip of  sandpaper to add that extra grip  to the edge of the work pieces.







Well so far so good, I just spent a lot of energy  preparing the blade using the scary sharp method, first getting the basic angle at 30 degrees  and then adjusting my Veritas sharpening jig  by 2 degrees to get the  the finished cutting angle  all highly polished but it don't seem sharp enough , hmm  maybe it the steel quality of the record blade or  maybe  I got the cutting angle totally wrong for  planing end grain ?.

To adjust the Veritas  plane sharpening jig ,select  no 2  and set width to   no  2   being it's a 2"blade then set standard  length at 30 degrees  as seen in pics  set lower  brass roller wheel at 12 : O clock,  remove  gauge and  grind away  till grinding angle is completed, then set lower  roller to 6 : O clock and proceed to  set  sharpened angle till completed.








Have I got the angle wrong, bear in mind it is a record T5 it's not a low angle plane , so  what is the correct angle for planing end grain , what do you set your iron at  to get the best results?