Wednesday, 22 December 2010

Triton cross cut attached - sip table saw

First let me apologize  for having to restart this thread right the way back to square one, seems like a plip this afternoon  remove the entire thread.VERY  STRANGE.

I brought this thread forwards as it will help me in the construction of my other on going thread ( my new tool cabinet.)

I use a SIP 01332 table saw which  does not have any cross cutting facilities with it,  which retails at about £360, I still had my old Triton  ETA300  cross cutting sliding table attachment, so though I would  try to attach this to the end of the sip table  to see how it worked out, nothing really to lose,  I paid some two years earlier about £160 so if successful  quiet a saving, as I  knew this attachment is  very accurate.( if set up correctly).

My plans for the saw which I have been planning for some time now were to have a sliding table and a router station fitted into it as well, another reason for purchasing extra extension beds.

I have already  fitted the extension bed leaves to the saw  one on each side of the original table top  my reasoning behind this is to be able to cut  full sheets of material  either way, on my own, with out an extra  pair of hands to help steady the sheet as it come through the saw whilst being cut. I still have to build an out feed table ( but that's another thread).
As my table saw sit on a turntable, I  wanted it to be able to either  have the sliding carriage removable or if I choose leave it attached to swivel around with the saw, this would depend on what other work was going on in the workshop at any given time.

First I had to find a way of attaching it so it could be easily removed or re assembled  with ease  and very quickly. I decided to copy the way  Triton  attached it to there own work-centres. luckily I still had the brackets to do so.

If it was to at times remain attached  but temporarily not use  I needed it to fold down so I  sourced some folding shelf brackets, very strong  one's, but I am disappointed  with the amount on slack in the design of these, they allow the shelve  to dip just under 90 degrees when under weight, which I will now have to make allowances  for as I design the rest of the project.

Now I needed to attach the  second slide bar to the shelve  so I use the same principle as Triton did on the first bar.  I  used flat steel bar 25mm * 5mm cut and bent it in the workshop vice with a small mortice and tenon  cut into them. Then I had to think of a way on fixing them to  the slide bar.  As seen in the pic here to the right  two centre pops  already marked  ready for drilling.

I used this method of fixing to the bar two pop rivets and one thread counter sunk bolt till I was satisfied I had both brackets  set up correctly so that both bars were running spot on parallel with each other, to remove any side ways slack on the carriage guilds, so that each and every cut was cut square.  Once I had this set up and correct I still had a very  very minimum rocking movement on the bars, I can remove this once I take the bar to a welder this will remove all movement keeping the slides  snugly fitted to  curve of the bars.

Now that  the two slide bars are  fitted and secure, time to give thought to the sliding carriage itself. (shown here before reduced in length).  I mentioned above I had previously added two extra extension beds,  this now  moves the  sliding carriage further to the left, so the original measuring scale is no longer accurate. I decided to shorten the carriage down in length,

It's now a 702mm square which is it's original width, I decided to  board over the carriage and ignore  the old built in measurements.

This was done with 6mm ply and stainless steel self tapping screws , now it was time to make sure the  ply top came level with the steel bed on the table saw  this was easily adjusted on the two chrome brackets securing  the  slide bar as the  top screw holes were elongated,  with a slight adjustment this was soon achieved.

The two slide bar are now parallel with each other and parallel with the  saw blade as shown here. ( spot on)

Now the fence it self, I wanted it to  include a sliding stop, plus new  self adhesive  measuring tape which was  sourced from axminster I used Kreg slide rail, self adhesive tape, and a sliding stop.

The fence it self is 56mm * 19mm *1.830mm hardwood screwed and glued with a softwood backing board  secure to the  sliding carriage.

The fence I kept short by 2mm from the edge of the blade,  to stiffen the the fence I used a 19mm * 100mm softwood and the Kreg slide bar once these were fitted  the fence is now ridged with no  flexing in it length.

To cut in  the cross cut position, I can cut just a little over 605mm in width.

To cut across a full sheet simply pick up the slide carriage and turn the hole thing 180 degrees  replace  it on the slide rails   and push till it reaches the  stops on the far end, this will give you a ripping depth of just under 1300mm.

I sourced two toggles hold downs from axminster yesterday afternoon    shown here screwed down with  heavy gauge self tappers.

Here is  shown the completed fence with the second self adhesive measuring tap attached to use when in panel ripping mode. and also showing attached  to the face of the fence self adhesive sand paper  to add some extra grip  to larger panels when cutting, for this I simply used  self adhesive  round  sanding disc and cut them in 45mm strips.

The completed sliding carriage and fence  with one coat  of sanding sealer still drying.



additional work I added to the  table saw an OUT FEED  TABLE  I added this  to help stop the ply section to the right of the saw blade from tipping  when  I cut an 8 * 4 ft  sheet in half, length ways, When the cut is fully cut at that point, the left section was fully supported by the sliding carriage,  To the right of the blade   there was more of the sheet overhanging the back of the table saw bed than was actual still on the saw table bed, this I found to be very dangerous.

The out feed  table its also of fold down design  using the same type of brackets I used on the cross cut table.
I can now cross cut a full sheet, with 50" to the right of the blade , to the left infinity.
I can cut up to 630mm cross cut in front of the blade.

Sliding Carriage LEG MODIFICATION.

On the Triton eta300 sliding carriage the legs are detachable but in one continues length shown here  with folding foot, I decided mainly as my table saw site on a turntable,  when I want to turn the table with these legs attached they had to be removed first then set up again,( time consuming), these legs are necessary  to stop any flexing in length of the slide bars when in the rip mod as the weight of the sheet  transfers past the back edge of the saw table.

To be able to do this I needed to redesign the legs  to remain attached at all times,  I used the same design shown here. When in the cross cut mode, when cutting narrow  timber or sheet material then the legs don't need to be folded down  for extra support.

It's so simple I'll let the picture speak for themselves.

Over head Storage .


Wednesday, 1 December 2010

plywood sheet support jig .

I felt one of these were necessary as moving 18mm sheeting about ready to cut on your own can be very difficult, and at times dangerous, I wanted this jig to give that bit of extra support whilst manoeuvring the sheet material for clamping with the two toggle hold downs and to help keep it balanced while doing this, like an extra pair of hands really, extra support till you pass the point of balance on the leading edge of the plywood till your table saw takes all the weight of the sheet being fed through the cut.

I have previously used the roller type free standing material supports but these tend to steer the materials where you don’t want it to go, hate that.

I wanted this jig to be permanently attached to the saw main body and easily accessible with ease of assemble which would only take seconds to do , not minuets, and not get in my way when in or out of use. This meant that no shop bought one would be any good to me so set about designing my own design.

I had left over from my Triton ETA300 sliding carriage a support leg with its balance foot which is 30mm steel square tubing , I decided to use this with one rollerball I also had left over from my turntable thread.

For this thread I decided I wanted to use as much bits and bobs around the workshop as I could, (recycle) so I came up with this idea.

This gave me my first problem to solve how to fit a round peg into a square hole. Square tubing, with a round roller ball attached.

Here I use a short 100mm piece of ordinal sink waste 1/1/2” PVC which has enough elasticity to be tapped on to the 30mm square tubing easily and it is a very tight fit, when on the roller ball fits snugly into the other end, both ends will be glued using araldite later. 

Now I had to come up with how do I keep it out of my way when not it use and easily accessible, and it had to be assembled/disassemble very quickly. I eventually decided sliding bar and fold up/down arm, with roller ball attached.

The support leg I had with bracket had to be altered as I could see no point in having a length of square tubing stuck out which has no purpose. As seen here before and after.

Now to work on how to  attach it up under the saw beds, remember I want it permanently attached.

O n my saw I have already  attached two extra side bed extension leafs, one either side, the one on the right to give extra support  primarily  for cutting  8*4 sheets in half across the sheet,  this also applies to the one on the left , but the left one will also house a router station as well as the sliding carriage attached on again for cross cutting purposes.

When the sliding carriage is set up, a full sheet  when let go of  will tip backward,  as there is not enough of the sheet from the saws front cutting edge to the front edge of the table on the right  of the blade to keep the sheet balanced, this is where this sliding  extending arm come in.

Luckily for me the extension bed comes with pre drilled hole to bolt  straight to the original saw bed, so from here underneath this is where I will   bolt on the housing for the sliding extension bar.

Again using bits & bobs from around the workshop I cut  a piece of  MDF:-

1) 800mm * 300mm * 25mm. HOUSING BACK PLATE

2. 800MM *30mm * 25mm  European  oak HOUSING RUNNERS

1). 800mm * 80mm * 80mm *25mm MDF HOUSING  FRONT PLATE.

 As seen here.

As can be seen  in the photo on the right the arm is now  extended and locked  with the vertical arm in the raised position, I must point out here  until I have the back plate mounted under the saw beds the raised arm cannot be cut down in length.  which has to be able to fold down as well as being raised  this is why I cut the back mounting plate at 300mm deep  just in case I need to adjust it up or down to allow the arm to swing equally in both directions, so the arm when lowered does not  hit the floor.

Now the locking devise is simple a furniture locking nut  with an 8mm bolt and turn handle as shown.

As I was building the housing box I realised I will need some metal plating screwed to the face side of the   backing  MDF plate with a hole pre  drilled  through  it,  as the hole is  quite  close to the edge of  the MDF to rely solely on the MDF strength, so this is where I had to stop for the day as I need to pop into town tomorrow to get some metal  plating to do this .

To fix the sliding arm box underneath I simple used flat bar  screwed to the face of the MDF,  with one hole drill through it, I then removed the two end bolts that bolt the extension bed to the  table saw bed  replaced the bolt with longer one and bolted it  on.

 These photos showing  position, extended and raised , closed and tucked away.  and it now full height cut to length.

The final photo  showing it all set up ready, unfortunately I don't have a full sheet to demonstate it  better but  I think you'll get the idea .

I place a piece of MDF  in front  of and to the right  of  the blade flush with the sliding fence the far end represent the end of an  8' sheet  . the sliding stop  adjuster is set to 4' to the left of the blade  this giving you  the  full length of the sheet  to be cut in two equal halfs.

To see the width of the sheet better I placed  a rule  in the photo where it rest on the  rubber support from the sliding carriage it measure approximately 30" now with the slid out  bar fitted on the right of the saw table bed, Now slide it out in  line, raise the arm and locked it, Now I  have the full length of the sheet  supported and  balance evenly down it's length so it wont tip  backwards  whist I  manoeuvring  it into position to lock the  hold down handle  before cutting.

Now where that  araldite, I'm fed up chasing that bloody  roller ball around the workshop.


PS  Remember  you seen it here in theworkshop  first.

Friday, 26 November 2010

tri square refurb

An old  W J Henderson Tri Square in need of re-squaring, I do like to use this square  but it was not quite accurate enough to use  on accurate marking out as I need it to right now.

Luckily for me the blade had a haunched double  mortice and tenon joint simply  held together with  four very small dowels and very minimal glue.

Easy enough to remove the  dowels with a very  small size m6 bolt tapped gently till the dowel started to move outwards then repeat to the rest of dowels. Next   tighten blade in a vice and  with a small off cut of wood and a mallet gently tap the handle till it slides off the blade.

 Now before re assemble make sure both edge of the blade are parallel with each other with a nice sharp  jack plane or bigger if you wish shoot one edge straight, then set up a marking gauge and mark a parallel line then shoot down to this line .

Now   because the  square  manufacturers before had only used small dowels and  very little glue is one reason why it was out of square, I decided here to add wedges  to add extra strength to the joint. This meant I had to chop out to allow for the wedges  to grip the sides of the original tenon, as shown here .    

I had to think of  the best way of getting it all square again whilst I was gluing it together so I decided to use my old Stanley  site roofing square with sash cramps  as shown here just gently cramped together as the glue dries.

It wasn't till I got to this stage that I realised  I had no small dowels  by then to late  to glue them  in, I would normally do this at this stage,  but ha ho never mind, I,ll have to make some later and glue them  in and allow to dry before removing cramps and then clean it all up.

Glued and waiting to dry, I leave the dowels for now till all glue is  dry and set hard.  Please don,t allow these lovely old tools to be thrown away refurbish them  and keep them going. hc

Thursday, 22 July 2010


Hi all

OK here goes ,it's made from 25mm MDF , first rip the sheet in equal half across it’s width this gives you two pieces roughly 1.2m square turn one end over by folding end – end length ways and square up and line up the two machined cut edge’s . Be careful 25mm MDF is extremely heavy.

First measure in 600mm from left hand machine edge along the front edge and repeat along top edge and mark a pencil line , now repeat 600mm up the left and right hand sides and mark a line , you have now divided the sheet into four 600 mm squares . This is then giving you the common centre point where the lines cross each other.

Next measure the foot print of the base of your saw. mine was 540mm across the front * 680mm in depth if my memory is correct , (adjust measurements for your own saw size), so now half these measurements , starting from your vertical centre line at the common centre point where the lines cross mark up 340mm and down 340mm and on the horizontal line mark 270 mm in both direction from the centre line , when line are drawn in, this is gave me the footprint size of my saw .

On my saw I have four feet 100mm Square * 30mm wide (L shaped) if you have something similar draw these onto the board as well (it’s important later) OK once you done that you need a large compass, or a set of trammels, measure about 25mm inside the inner edge of the four feet by about 25mm set trammels or compass and draw your first circle this is the first groove for your ball bearings now do the same about 60mm outside the corner of the feet and mark the second circle (second groove for ball bearings) , this now places your saw directly between the two grooves which will displace the weight evenly between the two ball bearing runs , right now strike you outer finish circumference from centre common point - to the left hand edge of the 1.2m square sheet and mark the circle , It’s important to do this I cut mine circumference on the band saw , it’s so simple, honest.


Now whilst both sheets are still together depending on what size dowel rod you have drill a hole of same diameter through both the sheets at the common centre point , this hole will first be used as the centre swivel point whilst cutting the out diameter on the band saw and whilst routing out your grooves for the ball bearings also now whilst the new circular base is still at the band saw remove the surplus off cuts from around it , (cut one sheet at a time NOT both together as they are much to heavy to handle for safety reason) when both circles have been cut the centre common point will need to be drilled larger 12.7 mm or there a bout’s to accommodate the bolt to bolt the two section together which you’ll need to chop the hexagon head flush into the underside surface before the lower circle is secured to workshop floor first before final assemble .


You’ll only need scrap timber don’t use any thing expensive. Find something wide enough to balance a half sheet of 25mm MDF on it only need to be about 300mm. I think at this time I let the picture explain how it’s done quite simple really. Jig clamped to band-saw. Photo showing centre swivel pin. That’s your first jig done.

OK, all I can show you here because I didn’t take any photos of the circle being cut but what I can show is the waste material left in position which I think you’ll get the idea how it is done , with the half sheet in position with the end of sheet resting against the band saw blade and the centre common swivel dowel through the hole you previously drilled in your half sheet of MDF when machine is running just feed the sheet through your hands from right hand to left hand with a steady flow of movement your band saw will cope with the full circle easily , I used a ¾” blade with no problems at all , there as I said simple, any way a photo.

Please bear in mind this photo was taken as a mock up for this post only normally the blade height would not be set that high up when in use. Now repeat again for second circle.

2nd JIG.

OK again just scrap wood In this case I used hardboard only because that’s all I had.


Remember this Photo is also a mock up for this thread only. Here I’m sorry you have to use your imagination that the circle of MDF is there the swivel dowel is in the inner hole to cut the inside groove for the ball bearings , the other hole you see if for the second groove for the ball bearing. Once you cut the two grooves into both circle your now ready to start assemble, (but don’t forget to enlarge the centre common hole to take your centre bolt and also cut the hexagon bolt head into the underside of the bottom circle), do that and then secure bottom circle to the workshop floor (hope your floor is level) if not you know what to do .

PhotobucketOK so now the bottom circle is secured to the floor , I used 12.7mm ball bearing with the grooves cut to about 5.5mm in depth on both circles this left a space between the two surfaces of about nearly 2mm ( now you need a 2mm washer slip it over the centre bolt roll all ball bearing into the grooves, I bought 250 in all which to be honest was not quite enough, so buy about 300 in all this should leave just a few over , but don’t do what happened to me when opening the box the inner plastic bag split open and yes all over the workshop floor, oh bugger it took hour finding them all , What joy. Now slip on the top circle and the set of grooves will mate up with the ball bearing and gentle tighten down the centre bolt , there you go it’s ready to lift and position your saw to it .

This shows the legs of saw sat between the two ball bearing grooves finally the turntable still not yet finished or secure more to follow as soon as possible .

Photobucket One of the reasons it's taken some time to finish is now it's mounted on the turntable as seen opposite and is when I turn the saw I wanted the extraction to turn with it which it now does only a few minor things to finish to get it completed, things like a couple of fittings to reduce down from one pipe size to another size on the extraction, I order a couple of roller ball bearings as well , oh and apply a second coat of wax to the machine beds as well .

This photo show saw in its normal position facing across the workshop with over head extraction

Photobucket Photo show saw turned 40 degrees to the right so if I want to cut long length of timber open the workshop door and feed timber out through the opening

Photobucket This photo shows missing connection and the arm that supports the the over head extraction piping which is screwed to the turntable, directly under the stanchion poll I fixed an old chair caster (temp) two new roller balls bearings were ordered today to go under there so when turned it just swing round with the saw .

Photobucket This one showing electrics, plugs at both end, so I  can disconnect which ever end I like and it move round with the turntable

last photo showing locking bolt turntable now has pre drilled drilled degree holes all I need to do is pull the bolt and with one finger push and the saw glides around to where I want to position it .

Photobucket I know my life is much easier now with this turntable no more struggling to move the saw when it in the way just turn it in a jiff for that I have to thank Wellswood over on UKw who did a thread on his turntable. hc