Thursday, 11 August 2011

My workstation for grinding and sharpening.

 This post will consist of six parts .

1 The turntables. (triple)                       completed.
2 The bridge and  universal tool rest.    completed.
3 The jigs.                                             completed.
4 Planer blades grinding set up.
5 Planer blades Honing Jig.
6 Scary sharpening.


The main grinders will consist  of two grinders, 1. Creusen NS5125 T  which includes a wet-stone to cover all grinding for chisels and  plane irons, (note) not the final honing/sharpening. 2. a small Power devil set up with a wire brush on one side and a buffing pad on the other side.

The turntables (triple) will be situated  in an area of 800mm,  hmm, I here you say he's gone nuts, hmm maybe I am, The second machine will be mounted off centre on the third  turntable for two reasons,  sorry guys you'll have to read on to fine out why.

I have a Dakota  planer knife sharpener it will be fitted to the left hand bench of the workstation. The right hand bench will be used for all my Scary Sharpening  Workshop Heaven.  I use this system for ease of use  to get exact cutting  angles correct each and every time.

The  corner workstation bench the creusen wet-grinder and the small Power devil.

I intend to add new jigs to the right hand wet-stone that are similar to the tormex system. The creusen as seen here when I  refurbished it early in the year. I have purchased a veritase grinding jig from axminster  for use on the smaller 150mm left hand dry stone grinding wheel.

The washer spacer  in the middle is approximately 2mm thick,  I wanted to bolt the Creusen to the MDF I did not want to rely on screws to hold it fast, I ground the heads on four coach bolts to just under 2mm thick as seen  in Photos  so they would not  interfere with the easy glide of the turntable.

Photos showing coach bolts driven into the underside of the top section , cradle to hold water bath, turntable reassembled,  plus locking bolt fitted.

The wet-stone fitted so now I can take accurate measurements to  work out the height and spacing required for  the manufacture and fitting of  jigs.

Seen here on the left 150mm wheel  for quick fast  grinding  assembled with a veritas jig for plan irons  and chisels etc.
On the right with a 200mm wet-stone fitted and shown  turned ready for easy access to the  side of the wet- stone more on this later.

Next I cut the disc for the turntables machined the ball bearing channels and assembled them.

Below Left. The cruesen in it's main working position.

Middle.  Turned at a 90 degree angle, drill sharpening Jig on order also showing the two new turntables with the Power devil fitted off centre of the small turntable which will be made clearer very soon.

Right. Turned at 180 degrees  with the Power devil mounted  in it's position for smaller pieces to be polished etc,  all indication marks lined up and the securing bolt dropped into it retaining hole to lock the  turntable in it's  required position

It's seen more clearly here below, now, turn the the top turntable about 30 degrees to the  right and lock it, shown in front of the machine,  all three turntable are now locked  and  the buffing wheel is now swung out over the edge of the work bench giving you access to buffing  longer or  irregular shaped items, hence why I set it off centre on the third turntable.

Switching back to the creusen  just reverse the operation, the third photo on the right above showing  turning handle  just crab holds,  I fitted two of these  one each side on the base turntable pull or push in either direction, I did this because with glass sheeting fitted on both side benches right up to the turntables circumference , whilst turning I kept catching my finger on the edges of the glass, ouch!! not nice.

I am really chuffed with the way this sharpening workstation is coming together in particular the way the two grinders  revolve around each other in a space of  less than 800mm square, a neat use of space.

The bridge and  universal tool rest.

The jigs for  the wet-stone are along the lines of the Tormek universal support tool bars, I bought two  support holders to attach my  jigs earlier in the year,  I had hoped I could self  tap then straight on top of the creusen but, the metal casing on the Creusen proved to be to  flimsy allowing to much flexible movement  and the pre-drilled hole in the support tool holders were  in the wrong places.

Next I built a bridge to go over the  gearing housing in two parts, I built this from off cut on ply, the main support pillar was   just glued and pinned together with the vertical holder screwed to it, this pillar is fitted at the  rear of the creusen next to the water bath, I secured this with just one screw for now as when the  universal arms are made and fitted  they will need squaring with the outside edge of the  wet-stone, I will then secure the main support pillar  with two other screws. (more later)

Below,  The main support pillar showing at the  base on the left a screw hole to act as a swivel screw until   the universal tool rest are fitted and squared with the edge of the water stone  then secure in position with right hand screw holes.  Middle, Support pillar with vertical tool holder secured  and  base screwed in position.  Right,  Showing bridge over the creusen  gearing housing and horizontal  tool  holder fitted, this also has to be squared (same as the rear)  when both front and rear  universal tool  rest holders are squared with the wet-stone  then screw both front and back sections together via the bridging plywood  locking front and back together all is  now secured and solid.

The only downside of the ply bridge over not being able to screw straight to the cruesen is the universal tool rest are now slightly higher up the side of the wheel than i would have liked but, I feel this is not going to be a problem, only time will tell on that one.

Next the preparation for the universal tool rest, I refused to pay some £37.00  for each tool  rest with just over 24 " of silver steel to each rest.  These tool rest must be absolutely square with no twist in them. I decided to make a rough form-work to hold all the steels while it was being welded.

Now finished the universal tool bars in there holders its beginning to take shape, before I finally decide on what types of setting tool jigs I intend on using, down to Axminster next week to have a look at some of there setting tools. I am contemplating extending the tool bars around and along the edge of the wet-stone hence why I  have left them long for the moment.

As shown here  Both Universal tool Bars welded and fitted, The more time spent here now fiddling the better,  they must be 100 percent spot-on square to the grinding wheel, this applies to  both tool rests front and back, It's most important and will prove time well spent in the end.

I mentioned earlier in the post the swivel screw, now it time to lock the tool rest square to the grinding wheel.  You need a large square you know you can trust, Now just simple  place  the square on the tool rest  as shown twist the  pillar arm till the square touches it entire length along the  edge of the grinding wheel  (as shown) and screw in the locking screws, now repeat on  front jig and lock it as well. with this is done, screw the bridge  on top   and lock the two together, done.

As seen above  on the left,  bars to be shortened  to come inside the sweep of the circumference on the base turntable  to clear the corner wall as it swivels  so they can be left on the machine at all times.

Finally below,   looking from the front through to the  back  tool rest you see both are square and  there is no twist in the bars  both run level and both run  parallel with each other, I want to design another tool bar  along the side of the grinding wheel but at a lower level, maybe  connecting with both front and rear tool bars but, first a trip to Axminster Tools, just to dot a few Is and cross a few Ts  in my minds eye.

Once I  am sure it will all connect up as I want the tools bars to, then that will cover all the different styles  of wet-stone grinding that I need from plane blades to chisels gouges scissors etc plus all my turning tools as well.


Well , I thought now that the universal tool rest were fitted it would be straight forwards  get the jigs that I required and away we go, oops  I soon found out, not so.

I set up my first jig, I am going to grind all my hand plane blades  and most of my chisels from the side of the stone, To be honest  I'm not really a big fan of hollow grinding although I will if I have to, While I was dressing the stone I noticed an amount of flex in the front and rear  universal tool rests  which for me was unacceptable with just the weight of my hand resting on the end of the steel 12mm rod you can see it flex , I know at the moment they are longer than required but, even when shortened to there final length  they will still flex.

This has forced me to rethink the way I want to set up my jigs, I want to eliminate all flexibility in the tool rest,  I now know when I originally dressed the edge of the wet- stone the bar was flexing with ever turn of the screw meaning the stone is not  perfectly square, getting fussy in my old age.

Left, original dressing in progress.  Middle, cross side tool bar for plane blade jig to hang from, it is to short it needs to be longer and  cross over the  front tool bar  for more  support plus it needs to be locked into place to stop any sideways or vertical waggle when under pressure from movement. Right  planer  jig hanging on the tool bar  set up to grind at 25 degrees more on setting the angles later.

The next problem I have is to get a longer cross over side  tool bar  which are not made to the length I require.

As yet I don't have a metal workers lath only my trusty old M950 axminster so, I  though I would have a dummy  run on a short off cut of steel bar I had left over.  I really surprised myself here with the results.

Now I'm not condoning anyone should try doing it this way , in fact don't, unless you feel really comfortable with your tools and your own abilities. Bear in mind this was machined  using tools like  junior hacksaw to cut the shoulders and several different files to machine file it down to the right diameters required and a 8mm thread cutter and that's it with the lathe set at the slowest possible speed.

Left,  shop bought cross side tool bar, the two part screwed together. Middle,  two part separated showing shoulders required. Right, My attempt using the tools mentioned above, done myself proud I  think by any standards, not so good as if it had been done on a metal working lath  but, still acceptable compare  middle photo to the right photo.

Now tomorrow  get some longer 12mm silver steel and start all over again.

Phew that took some doing  preparing the second one, anyway it's now done, Must get myself a small metal workers lathe  it would make life so much easier, so OK onwards. 

Next,  before I go mad and start  slapping jigs on it all over the place it time first  to check all  three tool bars are level.  I cut and shaped two tool bar pillar supports from oak, these are to support the end of the bars to stop any flexing downwards movements and a small pillar support  sandwiched  between the front bar and the side crossover tool bar secured  as seen in photo, it just snaps into position.

Seen here the bars pillar support, they simple slip under the bars and lock into the  half cut 12mm hole to stop any downward movements. To fit the  plane blade jig simple slacken the two locking hand nuts located on the rear bar  and lift the front end of the side bar, simply  slip on the jig with blade attached to it, push down and it clips into the small pillar support  then lock the two hand nuts now grind your blade.

Now that's the universal tool bars are fitted I'm more than happy with the  amount of bar flexibility the pillar supports have removed, excellent,  the bars are also cut to length and finished, the whole turntable can now be revolved around 360 degrees without removing any of the tool bars or jigs.

The Jigs. 

OK here are the  jigs that I already  have and  the link to another  that I still need to get.

I decided to buy the tormek turning tool setter jig and the tormex angle master jig  solely to be able to set up the  angles  for chisel  whether it was  for wood chisels, or  turning chisel, with all there various angles to get them correct each and every time + also  for the plane blades for the same reason  to be able to get  the angles set very quickly and  accurately for all of my cutting edge tools.

I still have to get the tormex multi jig . all other jigs after that will be nice to have  but, only when  finances allow.

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